Ulysse Nardin Freak One Ops Military Green Watch

The Freak dial features a color known for its military applications.

The year 2001 stands out in history, with some events - some fascinating, some horrifying - that will have a major impact on our future. In 2001, the launch of the Ulysse Nardin Freak marked a breakthrough moment in watchmaking – as our own Xavier described it, a watch with “no dial, no hands, no crown, A horological UFO with a novel silicon direct impulse escapement. Markle. I encourage you to delve into his detailed review of this “avant-garde masterpiece that broke all conventions and pioneered silicon in the watch industry” and its subsequent versions. Speaking of which, Ulysse Nardin has launched a new version of the Freak One, and it comes in a rather polarizing color scheme.

Since 2001, the watch, which has no crown for winding and setting the time, no traditional hands for indicating hours and minutes, and no designated dial, has spawned numerous variations. The latest addition is the Freak One, launched earlier this year, featuring a 44mm black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold bezel. At Dubai Watch Week, Ulysse Nardin unveiled the Freak One Ops, essentially the same model but exuding the aura and appeal of camouflage and military aesthetics – Ops (short for Operations), smart.

The Freak One Ops retains its predecessor’s 44mm black DLC-coated and satin-finished titanium case, only this time showing off a notched bezel made of Carbonium. This material has a unique aesthetic and has been used by Ulysse Nardin (Skeleton X) since 2019. It is produced under high pressure and temperature with two-thirds carbon fiber offcuts from the aerospace industry and one-third high-temperature epoxy resin. Recycled materials significantly reduce the environmental impact of Carbonium production; watch owners may be proud of this, or use it as a talking point to divert the conversation away from the humble 30-meter water resistance.

Now, almost everything visible beneath the sapphire crystal forms part of the movement. The khaki green lid with sunburst pattern is an attractive backdrop for reading wonders. A narrow outer ring with Arabic numerals 3, 6, 9 and 12, as well as less obvious three-dimensional hour markers, frames the dial surface and subtly complements the watch’s camouflage aesthetic. The main bridge structure with gear train components and minute markers forms the brand’s signature anchor emblem. The flying balance bridge is the counterweight of the unconventional minute hand, which rotates with the gear train above the dark green surface. The hour hand on the rotating disc and the minute hand at the end of the 60-minute Orbital Flying Carousel tourbillon (which replaces the minute hand), as well as the Arabic hour markers, are treated with beige Super-LumiNova, which emits a green glow in the dial. dark.

The bezel-operated time-setting system features a locker at 6 o'clock, allowing rotation of the entire movement. The patented winding system on the back requires rotating the outer ring of the case back counterclockwise to wind the watch.

Ulysse Nardin powers the Freak One Ops with its in-house UN-240 automatic movement, which beats at 21,600vph and has a 90-hour power reserve. It features the brand’s proprietary Grinder winding rotor system, designed for ultra-fast bi-directional winding with even slight wrist movements. While the Grinder is certainly a technically impressive piece of engineering, the case back view lacks the vibrancy of the dial side.

To complete the military-inspired look of the Freak One Ops, Ulysse Nardin pairs the watch with either an integrated khaki and black “ballistic” rubber strap or a two-tone rubber strap, both made from 30% recycled rubber and secured with black DLC Titanium and black ceramic folding clasp.

Technical Specifications – ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK ONE OPS
Case: 44 mm black DLC-coated titanium with satin finish - 12 mm thick - Carbon fiber bezel - Black titanium case back set with sapphires - Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial: No dial structure - Barrel cover engraved with sunburst pattern, khaki color
Movement: Caliber UN-240 - In-house automatic movement - 90 hours power reserve - Hours, minutes - Pivoting Flying Carrousel movement - Oversized silicon oscillator and balance spring - DIAMonSIL escapement treatment - Grinder® Automatic winding system, blade technology - 229 components - 15 jewels - 21,600vph
Strap: One-piece khaki and black “ballistic” rubber strap or – One-piece two-tone rubber strap – Black DLC titanium and black ceramic folding clasp – Rubber strap made from 30% recycled rubber from production waste
Reference number: 2403-500-8A/3A